MOUNTAIN LIFE - Coast Mountains | Summer 2018

It seemed we had a private, salty world to paddle through, our senses heightened to enjoy the rich sea life. 84 MLCM SUMMER 2018 Safe and happy in Halkett Bay Park that evening, we charged up with a venison sausage, cherry tomato and goat cheese pasta, and just the right amount of Coast Mountain brews. It definitely beat sitting at home watching smoke forecasts. Day two’s paddle plan looked big, we intended to cover over half the total distance of the four-day journey. Navigating the southern coast of Gambier, the haze-filtered sun warmed the air and each of the three large bays seemed to create a shift in the wind. Rounding the corner towards Gibsons on the Sunshine Coast, we stopped in a protected little nook that offered us a place for lunch. It’s been decades since Relic and Nic battled in these waters for logs escaped from their booms on the classic 1980s television show The Beachcombers , and I wondered what their reaction would be to our low-tech mode of transportation. The west side of Gambier and Anvil Islands offered remote rustic camping, seaside caves to explore, and world-class views of the coastal mountains. We saw few other people, only the occasional tug or fishing boat trolling a favourite bank. It was hard to believe we were only a kilometre or so away from a highway that sees over 1 million cars each year. Howe Sound has only recently recovered from years of pollution from the Britannia Mine. After decades of devastation, local residents are seeing a return of sea mammals like dolphins, humpback whales and orcas. As we approached McNab Creek, a proposed sand and gravel pit site, I found it hard to imagine that a large multi-year development like this could positively impact the area at all, let alone this unique wilderness experience on the Trans Canada Trail. I’m doubtful that introducing potential traffic, noise and water pollution to this area is in our collective best interest. Paddling these waters, there’s no better way to be inspired to protect them. And as we glided away from shore in glassy waters on our last morning of the trip, I relished my new perspective of Howe Sound – an intimacy that only an adventure over water can provide. With the sun poking over the ridgeline, smoky and orange, we pointed our boards towards Porteau Cove, rejuvenated, and salty to the bone. bcmarinetrails.org/70-howesound Karine Choiniere packs the most important item last.