WINTER /SPRING2016
MOUNTAINLIFE
49
Collapsing in a heap atopThorungLaPass, I’m awestruckby the beautiful surroundings.Clear blue skies toppeaks
draped in seracs and icefields.Tiny villages rest in the shadows far below as a ribbonof singletrack extends between them.
After a short respite to catchour breath, alongwith some tea and cookies, it’s time todrop in; to the tune of a 1,700-metre
descent.Though theseHimalayan trailswereworn-inby foot, they feel like they’remade for a bike. From flowing
singletrack through glacialmoraines near the summit, the trail steepens into a series of loose, technical switchbacks.
Droppingoffwalls anddown stairs, we hoot andholler all theway to a tea house patio for a break.Today’s destination,
Muktinath, still sits over 500metres below. After another cupofmilk tea, we continue our descent along fast flowing
goat paths, eventually reaching SriMuktinath, a temple overlooking the city.We’ve arrived at the gateway to the
KingdomofMustang.
Closed to tourists until the early1990s,Mustang is like awhole differentworld. Aridhillsides, Buddhistmonasteries
and another languagewelcome us to this forbidden land. Formerlyknown as theKingdomof Lo,Mustangwas its
ownkingdomuntilNepal annexed it in the 18
th
century.The region is an important trading route from India toTibet,
operating as a restricted, demilitarized zone until 1992 andmaintaining its ownmonarchyuntil 2008.
Remote singletrack, interspersedwith a roughdirt road, leads us throughhidden villages andover 4,000-metre passes.The
desert landscape is beautiful yet harsh; thewinds batter us anddust clogs everyorifice even as cool air descendingoff the
distantAnnapurna range brings a slight chill to the air.TheTibetanborder is visible in the distance.
LEFT PAGE, CLOCKWISE STARTINGTOP LEFT)
MirandaMurphy & KathrynWhiteside enjoy a beer and a laugh after a hard day of climbing. Chame, Nepal. TODDWESELAKE.A local watches the commotion
during harvest in LoManthang. LoManthang,Mustang, Nepal. STEVE SHANNON. Shannon andMurphy ridge riding at HighCamp (4900m).Thorung LaHighCamp, Nepal. WESELAKE.A local herder and his
goats. Gamli, Nepal. WESELAKE. Shannon andMurphy ridge riding at High Camp (4,900m). Thorung La High Camp, Nepal. WESELAKE.
ABOVE
Suspension bridges are abundant on theAnnapurna circuit.
Murphy andWhitesidewith theAnnapurnamassif in the background. Ledar,Nepal. WESELAKE.
