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Leslie Timms’ Classic Grey and Bruce County Climbs

  • August 20, 2018
  • Ben Osborne
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Leslie Timms on Laplacian Ballroom 5.11a, Old Baldy. Photo: Colin Field

words:: Leslie Timms

Lion’s Head: the Quintessential Ontario Climb

Lion’s Head is home to the best rock on the Niagara Escarpment. This 40-metre blue streaked limestone cliff band on the shore of Georgian Bay boasts over 200 technical sport routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.14d. The climbing is just as incredible as the views and yet it is still quite common for climbers to leave disappointed after their first experience on the cliff. The best way to describe the style of rock climbing here is “adventure sport climbing”—a character much different than the easy-access sport routes commonly found on the Escarpment. Climbers need to expect difficult orienting and come prepared with an array of technical skills for the wide range of climbs on this top-accessed cliff. A perfect example of a quintessential Lion’s Head experience is climbing the classic, Maneline 5.10a, arguably the best 5.10 in southern Ontario. Start Maneline with an exposed rappel down to the base of the route, then navigate 40 metres of sustained 5.10 climbing (with a notable run-out on easier terrain), summit the cliff, build an anchor and belay your partner back up. Also scattered throughout the cliff are several standard sport routes with anchor loweroffs, but even these climbs require a rather serious approach that is not to be taken lightly. Many routes here are wet in the springtime, but peak season (July through September) is perfect on the cliff and the water. The Bruce Peninsula is a beautiful laid-back place, with many campgrounds and beaches. Come prepared with patience and climbing skills as you navigate this complex cliff.

Old Baldy: Beaver Valley’s Big Wall

The Beaver Valley is loaded with limestone and each climbing area has its own character. Generally the cliffs here are nestled amongst trees (most notably, ancient white cedars) with dark limestone corridors, technical faces and cracks, and a variety of sport, traditional and top rope climbing. Old Baldy (also known as Kimberley Rock) is unique to this stretch of the Niagara Escarpment, as it sits high and exposed on the Valley edge. This proud band of white fossilized limestone stands just outside of the town of Kimberley and the climbing is generally sustained and technical sport climbing, with quality rock and amazing views. The hike in is relatively short (20 mins) and the cliff was retro-bolted (old bolts were replaced) about nine years ago by a group of local climbers. Routes are now equipped with newer bolts and rappel anchors, and there are a few traditional/mixed routes spread throughout the cliff as well. The highest quality climbing starts at about 5.10c, with the majority being in the 5.11-5.12 range. A perfect route to test your skills and feel the rhythm of this technical stone is Laplacian Ballroom, 5.11a. If you enjoy this dance then you will certainly like the many nearby classics. This is a beautiful area to visit, climber or not, as it offers some of the highest views in the Beaver Valley within a reasonable 15 minute walk to viewpoints. The cliff itself is relatively easy to navigate and the routes are fairly concentrated.

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Ben Osborne

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Iceland - the Land of Fire and Ice - is one of the only places you can go ice climbing all year 'round.
“I realized the splendour of this place was due to what it lacked. In the absence of people, the biosphere thrived all around me. I watched an Arctic tern skim the churning water, crying out keenly. As it scooped up a small fish I admired the bird’s consummate skill, using the wind and water to influence and guide its every move. I felt I could learn from a creature that, instead of struggling against its environment, simply observed closely and adapted continuously without over-analysis.”
It's GIVEAWAY time!
From The Gear Shed: ML + partners have selected six noteworthy tops and jackets just for you! Check them out #linkinbio #gearshed #reviews #mountainlifer
Sunday night chill vibes 🥱 #mountainlifer
Yukon magic with @christieimages 😍✨#mountainlifer
👋 Hello July. May your day be filled with mist off the lake, a breeze in the mountains and a view to remember #mountainlifer
💥NEW MAG DAY!!! This new issue of Vie en montagne puts the spotlight on duos, fellowships, groups of friends and tight-knit communities who can move mountains with their unified energy. Our contributors take you on journeys in words and pictures, such as an inclusive hike in the Eastern Townships, a look behind the scenes of a trail race on the Gaspé Peninsula or an exploration of the territory of the new generation of Inuit in Nunavik. Join us for this new human-powered sporting adventure because alone we may go faster, but together we go farther! –Frédérique Sauvée, Editor
NEW MAG!!! This new issue of Vie en montagne puts the spotlight on duos, fellowships, groups of friends and tight-knit communities who can move mountains with their unified energy. Our contributors take you on journeys in words and pictures, such as an inclusive hike in the Eastern Townships, a look behind the scenes of a trail race on the Gaspé Peninsula or an exploration of the territory of the new generation of Inuit in Nunavik. Join us for this new human-powered sporting adventure because alone we may go faster, but together we go farther! –Frédérique Sauvée, Editor
Where will your adventurous soul take you this summer? 🏃#mountainlifer
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Iceland - the Land of Fire and Ice - is one of the only places you can go ice climbing all year 'round.
“I realized the splendour of this place was due to what it lacked. In the absence of people, the biosphere thrived all around me. I watched an Arctic tern skim the churning water, crying out keenly. As it scooped up a small fish I admired the bird’s consummate skill, using the wind and water to influence and guide its every move. I felt I could learn from a creature that, instead of struggling against its environment, simply observed closely and adapted continuously without over-analysis.”
It's GIVEAWAY time!
From The Gear Shed: ML + partners have selected six noteworthy tops and jackets just for you! Check them out #linkinbio #gearshed #reviews #mountainlifer
Sunday night chill vibes 🥱 #mountainlifer
Yukon magic with @christieimages 😍✨#mountainlifer
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